![]() 12/13/2013 at 11:32 • Filed to: miatalopnik, craigslist, HAAAALP! | ![]() | ![]() |
So, I will be buying a miata as a toy/track car soon. Specifically I'm looking at NA's after 96 (I would rather have the 1.8L over the 1.6), and I've found a few, but I'm curios if Oppo has any advice for me on issue specific to the 1st gen Miata to watch out for.
!!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!!
Regardless, I'm considering calling him up to see if I can have a look this weekend. If y'all are bored and want to help me look, the budget is ~4k I can go a bit higher, but I'd rather it be less. I'm not very concerned with cosmetics, so minor dents, dings, and faded paint don't bother me all that much (though signs of a major wreck or neglect are another issue entirely), so long as mechanicals are in good shape and maintenance is up to date. I would prefer something in the Houston/Woodlands/Galveston area, but DFW works too since I have family up there and can have a free place to stay if I need to head up that way to look at/buy the car.
![]() 12/13/2013 at 11:41 |
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I am in the same situation, but I want a daily driver .
Will be watching this.
![]() 12/13/2013 at 11:52 |
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If you want a 1.8L, then go for the 94-95 years. Apparently after 95 Mazda installed fake oil pressure sensors that read halfway at a very low pressure. Also, they're probably the most affordable 1.8 Miatas you can get.
![]() 12/13/2013 at 11:54 |
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Interesting, good to know, thanks!
![]() 12/13/2013 at 11:56 |
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No problem if you don't mind not having ODB2 sensors, then they're the best candidates for modifications/tracking. (Or you can drop it a later NB2 VVT engine for some serious punch.)
![]() 12/13/2013 at 11:58 |
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Am I missing something here or did aftermarket oil pressure gauges suddenly become prohibitively expensive?
![]() 12/13/2013 at 12:00 |
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It's just nice not having to fix mistakes the factory should have never made.
![]() 12/13/2013 at 12:03 |
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Ahh. I was just curious if it somehow effected some sort of ecu safety feature, so I'm guessing not.
![]() 12/13/2013 at 12:18 |
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Doesn't bother, me not having them, though I imagine there are likely ways around the OBDII as well. As for an NB engine, it's always a possibility. I'm planning for the initial build to be a relatively mild N/A one, set of decent adjustable coilovers so I can also get the car corner weighted, a header/highflow cat/ exhaust setup for a bit more power, some bracing via FM tower brace, butterfly brace and frame rails, and a roll bar. Seems like a decent start for me to learn how to drive RWD in anger (up till now my track experience has been FWD, which I'm not bad at), and then, after I get more comfortable with that, I'll start looking at a major build...possibly with FI, but maybe not, that's a few years down the line.
![]() 12/13/2013 at 12:34 |
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Sounds like a pretty solid build idea, it doesn't need a lot of power to have fun. Just a FYI, only one aftermarket makes power on a NA/B Miata, it's the expensive Jackson Racing intake. If you can score a Euro or JDM intake manifold (and/or the cam) then you can make a bit more power.
![]() 12/13/2013 at 12:36 |
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Interesting, good to know on both accounts. And yeah, the one I drove for a bit seemed like it would be a lot of fun even without massive power.....but putting down a bit more never hurt anything either.
![]() 12/13/2013 at 13:17 |
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I meant to say aftermarket intake on that first bit, a local Miata shop tried several on the dyno and only the JR increased the horsepower but just barely. I'd also suggest a Racing Beat sway bar, end links, and sway bar blocks. My friend's NB has them it's a noticeable difference how more responsive his steering is than mine (same gen).
![]() 12/13/2013 at 13:23 |
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RB sways over the FM sways?
![]() 12/13/2013 at 13:26 |
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I'm not sure who's is bigger or more afforable, all I can remember is that my friend bought the largest sway bar RB had for sale.
![]() 12/13/2013 at 13:27 |
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And I'm in your exact situation, although I'm open to an NB. I'm having the issue that every miata seems way over priced.
![]() 12/13/2013 at 13:28 |
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Fair enough, a set of sways is in the plan, I'll need to research which ones are thicker though.
![]() 12/13/2013 at 13:36 |
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I had a 1990 NA with the 1.6 and it was a joy to drive. I tried coilovers, and then went back to stock springs on Koni orange struts, the stock suspension is very good and coilovers were too stiff given the poor condition of the roads out here. The aftermarket lower front and rear braces are kind of a must, I put the Thompson Automotive front brace (which made a huge difference and I highly recommend) and a Good-Win Racing generic rear brace (which I honestly couldn't tell much difference with) on mine.
There are a few things I didn't like about the 1.6 engine, but Good Lord the noise the 1.6 makes when you wind it up is one of the top engine sounds I've heard, it really is a better noise than the 1.8. And the exhaust crackle when you downshift...
If I were in the market for a new Miata I would have to drive both 1.6 and 1.8 to determine which I'd get. Since you're going to put aftermarket bracing in anyway, there really isn't that much that a 1.8 will get you over a 1.6 other than the motor.
Things I didn't like about the 1.6: The stupid coolant nipple on the back of the block with the cap on it, mine never leaked but it was a pain to change. The old-school flapper type airflow meter, although I expect the slow response from this was the reason I got those crackly downshifts. I've heard that some of the 1.6's have crank keyway problems, but I believe the reports that those are largely caused by a mechanic incorrectly torquing the crank pulley, as mine had over 180,000 miles on it and the key was still very tight.
![]() 12/13/2013 at 13:52 |
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All things to consider, thanks a bunch!